The final part of this tale takes place at The Grove, Montenegro; where we had fun things to do like remove plaster, uproot brambles and find somewhere to live. As well as some not so fun things to do, like smashing concrete, roasting a lamb over open flames and day-tripping to Podgorica for snacks and supplies.
Remember, if you’d like to help Zoe, Chris and the Quilliam boys out, in exchange for food and accommodation, then you can find them on HelpEx or contact The Grove via Facebook.
I recently had the opportunity to join a road trip from Newcastle to Montenegro, via London, Calais, Bruges, Brussels, Rothenberg, Bled and Dubrovnik, traversing 9 countries in the process.
Basically, a friend of mine, Beth, works at Quilliam Brothers’ Tea House in Newcastle, and the Brothers’ new project is a hostel in Montenegro. They have bought a disused olive mill – currently a shell of a building, albeit a beautiful shell – and intend to turn it into an eco hostel. There is a lot of work that needs doing and the first job was driving a minibus, loaded with supplies, to the town of Stari Bar where the hostel is located. (Incidentally, there’s plenty more work to be done over the next year. If you’re interested in working on a HelpEx basis, contact the guys via their Facebook Page).
I think, if you’ve read this ride report, then you already know my answer to that question. The team at Bike Magazine have done a stellar job creating the route. There were parts of it that even justify it’s appearance in a supplement entitled ‘Epic Routes’.
Unfortunately for you guys in the South-East, the route doesn’t really do much more than dip a toe in and even that part isn’t exactly awe-inspiring. To add insult to injury, there’s a lot of road resurfacing going on this summer, so you can’t even properly enjoy these roads, even if you know them well!
As I mentioned in the blog posts; touring, fully loaded, on roads you don’t know, is not the best way to enjoy these roads. Ideally, I’d spend a week learning each leg, based in a B&B so I don’t have to carry much stuff, and then string them all together in one almighty blast!
Whether the weather would hold up for the entirety of a venture like that is a different question entirely!
After a long wait, Mesh arrives with my spare key-fob. He works two jobs and has been working since 9am. He’s shattered and I really appreciate what he’s done. The Ape doesn’t though! After disarming the immobilizer, I discover the Futura has a flat battery and won’t start! No-one in the Police Station has jump leads, so I am actually going to have to call recovery now!
Recovery say they’ll be at least an hour, so more waiting for me. Mesh sticks around for a while but has to leave to get home and sleep – he has work again tomorrow.
After spending 12hrs stranded in Dunfermline, the recovery van arrives and brings the Futura back to life. The sun is starting to come up and I’m exhausted but I need to put some miles on the bike, to make sure the battery is okay and get the hell out of Dodge if I want to find somewhere to set up camp and get some shut eye…
I’m woken by the sound of someone urging their dog to stay away from the weirdo in the hammock (see, I told you it would happen). The birds have been chirping away for hours but I’m used to them now. The sun is pretty high in the sky, I check my phone and discover it’s already after 10am!
The problem with blogging on the road is that, when I camp in a spot with a good 3G connection, I stay up late updating the blog, then I end up sleeping late and I miss the best time of the day for making pictures; pre-sunrise.
It’s too late now though, this is my last day on the road and, in any case, it’s more important to be well rested before a long drive. For some reason, I’m not expecting much from this final leg of the ride. I guess because, down South the best roads were in the West, and the roads in the North West have been amazing, so I doubt that the North East will be able to top it.
I’m hung in the best location of the entire trip. It’s amazing what a bit of local knowledge can do: Mariella has directed me to a good spot where I have a loch and mountain’s as my view, and a stream burbling away right beside me. On top of that, the hang was perfect last night (turns out more sag than I usually go for, plus less air in the mattress makes a world of difference). There’s a strong wind coming up off Loch Long but I’m snug in the scoop of the hammock and, although I can hear it, I can’t feel the wind.
I could sleep here all day! I want to do just that – after yesterday’s walk, followed by a late night, I’m both invigorated and exhausted at the same time. Plus, getting out of the hammock means I have to get ready to leave and begin the final stretch back home.
One of my current flatmates, Mariella, is from round these parts and she’s visiting family in Scotland at the same time as I’m here, so I’d always planned to spend some downtime here.
My plan was simply to chill out, edit some pictures and catch up on blog posts. Mariella has other ideas, however. She wants to go walking on the Isle of Skye and hike up to the Old Man of Storr. I’m happy to accompany her but this means I really do have to free the DSLR from it’s prison in the Ape’s top-box.
I’d have been better off in Liverpool because nobody here knows how to ‘jimmy’ the lock! In the end, we decide to drill through it. I’ll just have to get a replacement when I get home. In the meantime, some reshuffling of gear needs to take place (I may as well put the Waterproofs in the top-box) before I semi-permanently close it up with zip-ties and duck tape.
With any luck, the pictures below, a sample of what ended up as an 8hr jaunt around the area, will justify the cost of a new lock! I hope you like them.
Last night was the best night in the hammock so far. Either I’ve finally figured out how I like to hang (it’s not a straightforward matter, kind of like finding your perfect combination of mattress, duvet and pillows) or I was just shattered from the 14hrs spent on the road yesterday. Either way, 8hrs sleep means I’m waking later than I’d planned but I’m so comfy that I struggle to drag myself out of bed.
I was ridiculously close to Hawes last night, so I decide to head to the Penny Garth Cafe for a New York Breakfast – I’ve been craving some steak for a while now. The food is good, the weather is good and it helps that the girl at the counter is beautiful too!
It starts off well; I’ve had a fairly good sleep in the tent and I’m on the road by 8am. Earliest start yet! It’s another fantastic summer’s day, so there’s over 12hrs of light to play with and I have 440 miles of tarmac stretched out between me and Kendal (where I plan to camp before tackling Kirkstone Pass).
The route, from last nights camp spot, into Market Harborough is great fun; fairly easy, meandering country roads, great views and that summery smell of wild garlic and rapeseed. On top of that, I’ve managed to pack the bike more neatly than any other day: a perfect start to the day if ever there was one!
I’m sorry about the delay in posting. It’s due to a distinct lack of 3G coverage where I’ve camped and a lack of time elsewhere. Tomorrow is a down day, so I’ll have something up before the day is done!
In the meantime, here are some teaser shots from my phone: